The match for a dark, heavy beer is a food that is just as robust: fondue.
In the 1950s, fondue became popular as an American party food, both for its novelty and its communal nature.
The best part: fondue has come out of the closet, and is no longer limited to melted cheese and bread.
There is a conspiracy among the dictionary makers to take the heart out of the fondue.
He tells, too, of a fondue party he threw for a couple of his septuagenarian cousins in Paris "about the year 1801."
Yet the fondue has added to the gaiety and inebriety of nations, if not of dictionaries.
At such a party a little heated wine is added if the fondue gets too thick.
When the knife comes out clean, take the basin out of the water and turn the fondue out on a dish.
Please note that fondue protocol calls for each egg to be beaten separately in cases like this.